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You may want to cover the artifact with two to three thin coats of tannic acid - the active ingredient in products like rust converters, which halts and prevents any further rusting.The tannic acid dries pretty quick, but you should let the final coat dry overnight if you are going to paint the artifact afterwards.Rust converters are not designed to remove the rust but to convert unstable corrosion into a stable, protective layer with the help of a latex-based coating."Rust-Oleum" (or "Rustoleum") is one of those commercial products, and it is not reversible - it can only be removed with Sodium Hydroxide.The solvent dehydration can be done with a water-miscible solvent, Ethanol, Methanol, Isopropanol, Methylated Spirits, Pure Alcohol, and Acetone.My favorite is Acetone as long as the acetone bath is placed outdoors or in a well ventilated area.In my opinion, the solvent dehydration technique is the most effective than any other methods.For instance, with the heat drying (ovens or infra-red lamps), a wet iron object that is exposed to air will turn rusty again as soon as it dries off.
An iron artifact must be dehydrated prior to using the Briwax.
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This protective layer insulates the iron from the effects of moisture, chemically active vapors, and gases (oxygen especially).
In general, the sealant selected should be: 1) impermeable to water vapors and gases 2) natural-looking, so that it does not detract from the appearance of the artifact 3) reversible, so it could be replenished or replaced 4) transparent or semitransparent, so any corrosion of the metal surface can be quickly detected Depending on what you have planned to do with your iron artifact, you can treat it with any of the following proven-to-be-effective sealants for iron conservation: For QUICK PROTECTION against oxygen and moisture, cover the artifact with a generous coating of WD-40, or light oil, which can be easily removed by solvents if necessary.